Serenity in Sonoma

Say the words “Glen Ellen,” and many Americans will think of those dependably low-priced wines that are sold from coast to coast:

There is obviously a winery with that name. However, Glen Ellen is actually a tiny country town (population 784) that is home to a number of remarkable wineries. Its street corners are spangled with signs pointing out which ones lie in which directions:

Located in California’s Sonoma Valley, Glen Ellen sits at the base of Sonoma Mountain and is considered part of the Sonoma Mountain American Viticultural Area. In plain English, that means it is part of a distinct area that is characterized by its geography and resulting microclimates, and is known to produce outstanding specimens of certain grape species.

The area around town is beautiful and its temperatures are pleasant. Oak forests grace much of the terrain, but there are redwood forests here as well, and the natural beauty inspired adventure writer Jack London to move here in the early twentieth century. Both the town and the valley are mentioned in several of his stories.

Beneath some redwoods he built a mansion that came to be known as Wolf House. Sadly, it was destroyed by fire the night before he and his wife were going to move into it, and he died three years later of kidney disease. Today, a visit to Jack London State Historic Park allows you to hike to the home’s ruins and to the moss-covered boulder under which the Londons are buried:

Glen Ellen’s most celebrated merchant, Benziger Family Winery, is located only a minute from the park and on the same road. Complete with handsome architecture and hillsides planted with vines, it is everything a winery should be. Visit the tasting room and you can try six of their selections for $10. Or you can take a tram tour of the property for $15. Or you can take a behind-the-scenes tour for $40. No matter what you do, you will get your money’s worth.

Valley of the Moon Winery, which borrows the name the Miwok Indians gave to Sonoma Valley, is less famous but offers an equally rewarding experience. Established in 1863, long before California became known for winemaking, it ranks as the longest-standing winery in the Glen Ellen area. Here is one of its vineyards that I photographed when we visited:

With harvest season coming up in September and October, now is the perfect time to plan a trip to this idyllic town. And if it is too late to make it this year, you might as well go ahead and make plans for 2012.

Go here if you want to stay in a creekside cottage or here if you want to rent a full house. Or if you prefer a more conventional inn, check out this place.

You do not have to be a wine lover to enjoy Glen Ellen. If you like walking around in the outdoors, there are opportunities to do so not only at Jack London State Historic Park but also at Quarryhill Botanical Garden. And if you are a foodie, you will be interested to know that Glen Ellen agriculture is renowned for olives as well as grapes. There are several high quality olive oil merchants here, including The Olive Press and B.R. Cohn (which is also known for its wine).

You will not regret visiting this simple and scenic spot on the map.

Note: The final picture was taken from B.R. Cohn’s Facebook page, and shows its Gourmet Shop where free olive oil and balsamic tastings are offered.

Great Places To Drink An Adult Beverage

Back in November, I wrote about great places to enjoy an adult beverage and said I would make it a recurring topic, each time offering up five recommendations in alphabetical order. Here, finally, is installment number two.

Over the past few days, as I went through my mental list of drinking spots I have been, a common theme emerged: Most of the ones that came immediately to mind have outdoor spaces. I don’t know why that is -- maybe it’s just because this winter has been especially cold and everyone is ready for spring to arrive -- but whatever the reason, there is no denying that enjoying a drink outside is a special treat, and no denying that most of us are eager for temperatures to warm up so we can do it again. So, here are five places sure to please:

The Balcony Bar & Restaurant; Eureka Springs, AR

I mentioned another merchant in Eureka Springs during a previous post, so you might say this Arkansas town has become something of a recurring topic all by itself. One of these days I will devote a post to the town as a whole, but right now I’m praising the simple charm of The Balcony Bar & Restaurant, which you will find on the second floor of the 105-year-old Basin Park Hotel. To get the full effect, grab a seat on The Balcony’s balcony and down a cold beer while the sun kisses your face. Look down at this view of the spot where Spring and Cushing Streets split, and watch as pedestrians scurry toward the town’s many shops. If you are into people-watching, this vantage point is meant for you.

Benziger Family Winery; Glen Ellen, CA

You have probably seen Benziger’s wines in your grocery store, and may have bought some to drink at home, but it is an entirely different experience when you consume their wine on their Sonoma Valley estate. You drive past terraced hillsides and an inexplicable replica of the Parthenon to arrive at the tasting room. Once there, you get to sample hard-to-find, limited production offerings you probably haven’t heard of before. After you buy a bottle, treat yourself to a drink while walking the grounds, which offer up views of trellises and tended vines and the low ridges which enclose the valley. Benziger is everything a winery should be.

Chowning’s Tavern; Williamsburg, VA

Josiah Chowning (pronounced chew-ning) opened his tavern in 1766, and today it continues on Duke of Gloucester Street in the heart of Colonial Williamsburg. The inside of Chowning’s has rustic appeal with pine floors and low beams, but for the purposes of this post, you need to take advantage of the large patio out back. There, you can sit beneath an expansive grape arbor while enjoying locally brewed ales. Butterflies flutter among the foliage in spring, clusters of grapes hang from it in early fall, and afternoons are pleasant either way. If you’re hungry, gobble down a pit-cooked barbecue sandwich...and if you feel you must spend time inside, come back at night when you can dine by candlelight and partake in 18^th century games.

Forsyth Park; Savannah, GA

Savannah owes its reputation as America’s best walking city to its lush squares, tree-lined boulevards, stately architecture -- and also to the fact you can drink on the streets. Occupying a two- by six-block green space at the southern end of the city’s historic district, Forsyth Park is crisscrossed by paved paths that slip beneath oak branches and lead to a large Parisian fountain. Fill your cup with pale ale or chardonnay, then sip away as you meander. Lie on the park’s lawn with your lover, sipping together, and you will never want to leave.

The Mill Top Tavern; St. Augustine, FL

Situated atop a water mill that was built in 1888 on the oldest street in America’s oldest city, this tavern is small and unpretentious. Yet at the same time, it knows its atmosphere can not be beat. There is live music every day, and from the tavern’s open air deck you can see the Castillo de San Marcos, a fort that has been standing since the 1600’s. Whether you are here in the afternoon or late in the evening -- whether you are drinking a bottle of Sam Adams or sharing a pitcher of Bud Light -- The Mill Top will not disappoint. And as you can see, kids are welcome, at least during the day: